Another world at Mungo

Posted on by Miriam

If I close my eyes I can almost hear tribal whispers, but it’s just the breeze drifting across the dry lake floor. Around me is red earth and a dramatic landscape and I feel like I’m on the moon. The silence compels me to sit, to be still and experience the land with all of my senses.

This is Mungo National Park, one of Australia’s heritage listed treasures, a place that transports you and captivates, a place full of history and wonder. Despite the feeling that you’re in the middle of nowhere, in reality it’s only a few hours drive from both Mildura and Wentworth.

I’m back after my first visit nine years ago and I’m just as enthralled as I was the first time.

We arrived to a hopping welcome

Kangaroos, dozens of them, flocked to us as we arrived at Main Camp. Large ones, small joeys, a whole family it seemed. No other campers, just Roos. We had the pick of over 30 sites, most of them had shelter, tables and fire pits. The kangaroos converged, curious yet friendly, as though used to human company.

Although I was initially unnerved by their boldness, they seemed thirsty. The landscape was barren and dry. How could we not give them a drink from the water tank that was attached to the shelter.

They became our constant camping companions, in the background, in the shade, never bothersome, just there.

Thirsty roos
Mum and her joey
Welcome water

Now let me backtrack

We left our overnight stop at Wentworth on the river after a memorable short stay. It was an easy drive towards Pooncarrie before we turned onto Top Hut Road. Here the road became tougher and corrugated so we let down the pressure on the tyres before continuing.

Entering Mungo territory is like entering another land. Big skies, endless horizon, low lying mallee shrub and not another car in sight.

Driving across the expansive dry lakes felt like we were in a time warp. Years of wind, searing sun and droughts have eroded the area of dry lakes leaving essentially a fossil landscape.

Interestingly our GPS still showed blue lakes but forget any idea of swimming. Mungo is one of 17 dry lakes that make up the Willandra Lakes World Heritage area and there’s not been a drop of water here in more than 1400 years.

Once, however, this lake was full of water and teeming with life. It was a meeting place for generations of Aboriginal people.

Mungo’s History in a Nutshell

When the lakes dried up about 10,000 years ago the bones and relics of the people who once lived on its shores were swallowed up by the desert sands. Then the wind exposed a fragment of history.

In 1968 a geologist by the name of Jim Bowler found remains of what became known as Mungo Man. Years later he also found Mungo Lady and in doing so Australia became home to the oldest human skeletons ever found including some of the oldest found outside Africa.  Over the years it’s been said that “Jim Bowler didn’t find Mungo Man and Mungo Lady but that they found him. Because they had a story to tell, even after 45,000 years. They wanted to let white Australia know that the Aboriginal people had been here for a long time and were still here.”

Mungo is a place of hugely significant archaeological importance.

Today the Mungo Lunette preserves thousands of ‘snapshots’ of indigenous life. These discoveries have given scientists clues on how ancient tribes lived and adapted to climate change more than 40,000 years ago. The remains of Mungo Man and Mungo Lady, which were taken away and studied by scientists for decades now, will finally (to no fanfare) be returned to their resting place in Mungo sometime in 2020.

The history of Mungo is an extraordinary story of how a culture was able to stay strong and care for Country even as climate change dried up the lakes that were the lifeblood of the region.

More and more discoveries and relics are being unearthed all the time and, understandably, this fragile area is now protected with restricted access.

Settling into Mungo time

Once we’d set up the van, tents and swag, not to mention the fly tent for meal times (to ward off the flies) we settled into camp with a welcome cold drink.

After lunch we headed into the Visitors/Interpretative Centre, just 2kms up the road. This is the hub of Mungo, where you organise your camping permit and where most guided tours leave from. There are plenty of interesting displays here, including a ginormous mega wombat that greets you at the entrance. I wish I’d taken his photo!

In the Centre you can learn about the rich natural history and cultural significance of Mungo. It’s air conditioned, a respite from the often searing heat and open 24/7. The best part, for campers, are the wonderful free hot showers.

Nearby and worth checking out is the shearing shed, once Gol Gol Station, a fascinating place that transports. There’s loads of signs and stories depicting the pastoral history of the land and an eerie feeling inside.

Non campers can stay in the self contained shearing quarters close by or at the very comfortable Mungo Lodge a couple of kilometres away.

For me though, nothing beats a night under the stars to feel immersed in this landscape.

Exploring Mungo

The seventy kilometre self guided tour is a great way to explore Mungo territory. You can pick up a copy of Driving the Mungo Story at the Visitors Centre, which gives route notes on the drive. Allow about half a day. There are lots of interpretative signs along the way and plenty of places to stop.

The loop gives a great feel for the vastness of Mungo. It leads across the lake floor to the Walls of China, over the dunes to the mallee country and then around the north eastern shore of the lake.

Mungo waterfront sign
Prime water front real estate, at least it was once!

Along the way there’s wildlife, a mallee nature walk, board walks, interpretative signs and a place to stop and picnic at the half way remote Belah camp. Towards the end the road detours slightly to Vigars Well. This used to be a watering hole for coaches and drays. You can still see the old wagon and dray tracks that cross the lunette.

Vigars Well is a series of massive sand dunes … and they rise high above you, just begging to be climbed.

From the car park it’s a steep walk to the top but it’s so worth it. Up high you get a sprawling 360 degree view of the lake floor and surrounding plains and the sand is like pure silk and bloody hot! If only we’d had a toboggan to slide back down on.

That’s Jordan, taking a flying leap up top.

Sunset Tour to the Walls of China

Our Sunset tour on the last night was the highlight and culmination of an amazing stay.

Gregory, our guide and the manager of nearby Mungo Lodge, was an absolute wealth of knowledge. He was also celebrating his birthday, as we found out from his wife Jo.

As we walked across the western shore of the ancient lake bed and climbed the red sand hills he had us enthralled. He brought the past to life with fascinating stories of early Mungo history.

lunette sunset

There’s no way to get out to the Great Walls of China without a guide. Two boardwalks allow reasonably close access but visitors can only walk on the lunettes with an accredited guide. The formations are far too fragile now, because of constant decay from wind and rain.

We walked mindfully amongst the lunettes and rock formations, as Greg pointed out a midden and other recently exposed shells, evidence of a time when this place was full of water. It was mesmerising, being out there, as the light dipped closer to the horizon.

At the top of the Walls, as we gathered for photos, we spontaneously broke out in song, surprising our guide with a Mungo style Happy Birthday rendition.

The last time we were here, over nine years ago, it had been my birthday. I still remember the text my sister sent me afterwards “compared to Mungo woman, you are spring chicken!”

Yes, I certainly felt a sense of timelessness here. A real sense of history in a surreal setting. At dawn and dusk when the hues of the sky converge there’s an overwhelming sense of spirituality, of calm and peace.

We drove back to camp under a big sunset that lit the way. In the one day I had watched the sun rise and the sun set over Mungo.

Earlier that morning, before the sparrows farted, I had woken up my sister and we walked to Mungo lookout, not far from our camp. There we watched the day begin over the plains, grateful for the moment and all that had brought us there.

As we looked out over the vast dry lakes, imagining this land once ten metres deep with water and brimming with life, it was almost humbling.

This land of spirituality, science and stories intoxicates as no place I’ve ever been to before. It’s the ultimate golden hour.

A visit to Mungo is like stepping out of the rat race and into a quiet slow world, one that lets the soul breath. Our time there reminded me how precious life is and how we can all do our part to protect and preserve our land, wherever we live.

We had no Wifi connection but I felt the magic, as though I was connected to something much more infinite in the Universe.

On our last morning we gave our four legged friends one last drink before we headed off. It was goodbye to this unique wonderland as we set off for our final destination in the Murray Sunset National Park.

Our next stop would be another lakeside camp, but still there would be no water and, once again, we wouldn’t need our bathers. We would be heading into new and even wilder adventures.

What an amazing world we live in.

Here’s to finding the calm amongst the whirlwind of life as we seek out new adventures. I’ll be back for part three of my Outback Aussie tour as we explore the pink lakes.

“The greatest adventure is what lies ahead.”

In love and light

95 thoughts on “Another world at Mungo”

    1. Thanks Glenys, it really was perfect. As for those roos, I thought the same thing but apparently they can go for ages without water and survive on eating seeds and grass. Still, they seemed grateful.

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  2. What a special place. I always thought kangaroos were not friendly, or one should keep distance as they are powerful, but your post shows a different side to them! What beautiful images, thanks for sharing this corner of the world with us!

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    1. Thanks Lisa and you’re right, most of the time it’s best to keep your distance from roos. They can be unpredictable. But in lots of places where they get used to humans being around it’s easy to co-exist quite well. I’m still wary of them but these guys were pretty docile.

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  5. Mungo looks like an amazing, incredible place. Never heard of it, but why would i have done. Love the photos, it looks so unique and completely different to anywhere else. We’d love to visit somewhere like that. You’re so right about this wonderful world that we live in, incredible places and so much to discover.

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  7. Great post, Miriam! How interesting that your GPS still showed blue lakes in the area. I suppose in the history of our planet, it was only yesterday that there were lakes teeming with life.
    I wouldn’t have expected so many kangaroos to live there, considering how dry it is. It must’ve been nice to have their company and be able to give them some water. I’ve never seen a kangaroo in the wild before… something to look forward to!
    The timelessness of the place definitely comes through your pictures.

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    1. Thanks so much Magarisa, yes I guess the GPS doesn’t know the difference between a dry lake and a real one. Amazing really. Same with all those kangaroos, I never expected so many out there but I did feel sorry for them. Thanks for your comment.

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  10. Fabulous information and images Miriam!
    Mungo is an exceptional place with fascinating landscapes.
    I came in from Broken Hill – 400kms of corrugations – top speed 30k/hr and through a dust storm! haha
    Yet well worth the destination and experience.

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  11. Beautiful post, Miriam. Your description makes it all so real and I feel the wonder and stillness.
    Steeped in history of the people who once inhabited the land and by the Aboriginals.
    It might have been a hard life but oh so serene.

    Miriam

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    1. Very serene Miriam. And perhaps hard, though I get the impression from what I read and heard it was quite a civilised culture. A truly fascinating place. Thanks for reading and your great comment. x

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  17. absolutely stunning shots and commentary Miriam … been to sacred country without the crowds!

    How wondrous 🙂 No need to ask, you had a great time 🙂

    Looking forward to the next episode …

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        4. bad news, had a few light showers today but nothing will clear the smoke haze … home is full of ash, nobody can escape. At least I don’t have breathing difficulties. Other bloggers haven’t been so lucky …

          Liked by 1 person

    1. What an enchanting way to describe this wonderland. Yes, it was indeed that my friend.
      More to come eventually. Big hugs to you across the miles. xx ❤️

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  26. What an amazing trip! I didn’t know anything about Mungo or the dry lakes, but it’s fascinating to see a desert landscape where there was once a deep lake. I don’t know which is more impressive, the history or the natural beauty….but I do know that I wish I was there with you, experiencing it. Maybe someday!

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    1. I’m not surprised you haven’t heard anything about this area Ann. Mungo is pretty under rated compared to our more well known Uluru. In my opinion however this place is just as awe inspiring. Thanks for your lovely comment. Glad I could take you with me, at least virtually!

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  27. I always enjoy reading your posts Miriam and I especially enjoyed this one. Such an amazing place and your photos are just stunning! I love the way you look at the world around you and the way you write about it, which is partly why you are a joy to travel with… It feels like I am right there with you. Thanks for sharing. BTW sorry for taking so long to read your post —It was a very long day at work. xx

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    1. Please don’t ever apologise my friend, I’m always grateful for you whenever you get here! And I’m so glad you felt as though you were travelling with me. Thank you so much for your warm and wonderful comment. Hope you’re home and relaxing now. xx

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  28. Miriam, ah!! What a superb post. I love how you transported me to this deeply spiritual place… once again I put on some Xavier Rudd songs, I somehow find they match your posts perfectly, and off to Mungo we went… I love the respect, reverence and love for country that shines through your perfectly chosen words, and how you combined those amazing pictures so exquisitely with all this fantastic information about Mungo. I feel a bit at a loss for words because I loved this post so much! You found the perfect way to convey Mungo´s, and Australia´s, ancient and powerful magnificence…every time I read one of your soul-touching posts, I feel that pull to go back Down Under…sigh. Thank you, my incredibly talented friend!! So much love and big hugs to you! You did your too-amazing-for-words-country justice here…sigh again. Hugs my friend xxx

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    1. We must have been reading each other’s posts at the same time because I’ve literally just sent my comment to you about your fabulous post on Dubai. Amazing! Aligned again it seems Maria.
      As for your comment here, my friend you seem never at a loss for words 🥰 and I absolutely love what you’ve written. Makes me feel as though I may just have done the place justice, which is what I wished for. Thank you so much. I’m truly touched at your response to my post. Love that you listen to Xavier Rudd too and that “pull” that you mention. What a great compliment. Big hugs and massive thanks again. xx

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      1. Miriam, you deserve this and much more!! What a talent it takes to do such a magnificent place like Mungo justice, and you absolutely did, no doubt about it. Yep, aligned again my friend. Read a word the other day called “Anam cara”, soul friend. Just came to my mind now 🙂 Warm hugs and so much love to you, my gorgeous friend xxxx

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  31. Thank you so much. I’ve been to Mungo twice, but both times with tension between me and my two different companions, so you showed me it as I was too preoccupied to see it. One powerful experience was the sense that the Lynette was complicit in taking away back pain. You capture its antiquity and it’s mystery beautifully.

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    1. Hi to you and thank you for dropping by. This was my second time to Mungo too. I’m sorry to hear that both times you visited it was soured by tension. What a shame about your travel companions. Maybe one day it’ll be third time lucky! In the meantime, I’m glad you enjoyed my post.

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  32. What a gorgeous area just teeming with history!! That’s wild about the GPS showing the blue of lakes that dry. I’m so glad that you have wonderful memories from both of your trips to such a mesmerizing place. Thank you for sharing it all with us, Miriam! xx

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  34. Miriam,a superlative post and you took me right with you to this most amazing and timeless of places! It looks like nowhere on earth yet not far from the cities at all! Incredible! I’m mesmerised by the scenery, history, scope. Yes … ‘This land of spirituality, science and stories intoxicates as no place I’ve ever been to before. It’s the ultimate golden hour.’ ! Ps. Just take a sledge next time … the sand dunes look like so much fun!

    Wishing you a Christmas filled with joy and peace, surrounded by loved ones! Xx 😀❤️

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    1. Thank you Annika for your lovely words. It really is a timeless place and somewhere quite phenomenal. I’m so glad I was able to take my sister there. Hope you’re well my friend. I wish you and your family a beautiful Christmas and all the very best for 2020. Big hugs xx ❤️

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  36. This is indeed a land of spirituality, science and stories perfectly intertwined into one another.. Lovely post Madam, thank you for sharing.. ☺️
    Human activity cannot be blamed for desertification of the Mungo region as the lakes dried up 10,000 years ago. Though the place looks beautiful, I would have preferred a terra-formed Mungo, teeming with dense rainforests and abundance of lakes. I believe human activity can do atleast this much.
    Lovely post nevertheless. Got to know a lot about the aboriginal people’s history, the geological features and such a beautiful place.. ☺️

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    1. So glad you enjoyed this post. It gave a true insight into the history of Mungo and you’re quite right, the lakes dried up through the ages and had little to do with humans. It’s a fascinating area to visit. Thank you for taking an interest in my posts. And please call me Miriam. 😊

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      1. Sure Madam, sorry Miriam.. ☺️
        Well, your travels and the experiences you gain are so beautiful which make me come and get mesmerized by them.. ☺️
        Thank you once again for sharing..!!
        Hope to get your feedback or comments upon your visit to my blog.. ☺️ They may not be as beautifully described as yours. Hope to learn from your feedback.. ☺️

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