Campsites and Moody Blues on the Eyre Peninsula

Posted on by Miriam

Cliff top camps, rugged ocean views and a roller coaster of emotions was all part of my stay on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. Here’s a lowdown on our time along this wild woolly coastline.

After crossing the Nullarbor, Ceduna and falling in love with Our Patch at Perlubie Beach, for 16 amazing nights, it was finally time to move on and relinquish our beach shack to new friends Kaz and Tony (who I met bogged in the sand the day before).

From Perlubie we headed to Elliston and the luxury of an ensuite site where Suzy and I finally coloured those greys! We spent the next day exploring the Talia Caves and the rugged coastline of the Sculpture Trail along the Ocean Drive. We did a reconnaissance drive to check out some coastal camp sites including Walkers Rocks.

The following day we continued along the coast, detouring to Sheringa Beach ($20 unpowered for a night) and onto Point Drummond, where you can free camp on the cliffs. It was super windy so we opted to move on but first we decided to pull off the road to make a sandwich for lunch

It was here on the side of the track that Doug got a bit of a shock, as an unmarked Ute pulled up and the guy inside (possibly a ranger but with no ID) screamed at him to get off the vegetation (our wheels were slightly off the road). The next thing I know Doug sticks his head in the van and tells me to “get in the car, this guy wants to kill me!” He was not kidding.

We still don’t know if he was a ranger or a local with a red hot temper who just wanted to bash someone up. Needless to say we didn’t stick around. The hunt for an overnight camp continued.

Our next detour was to Greenley Beach . As we stepped out of the car to check out the view we were greeted, not by an aggressive, macho, power wielding thug, but a large pod of playful dolphins leaping about in the water. Now that’s more like it! Watching them was pure magic.

So it was here we stayed the night, finding a spot at Greenley Campground, a levelled cliff point, with views out to the ocean. There’s nothing else but it’s beautiful, the sky is dramatic, our vans are level and well stocked and all is well and happy in our world. We wake the following morning to grey skies but still we walk the long stretch of beach to the rocks and back, leaving only footprints

Coffin Bay was our lunch stop and of course we couldn’t leave without buying some of their fresh, famous oysters to enjoy that night. Further on, Port Lincoln became home for the next two nights, this big centre of whale shark dives, cruises, a National Park to explore and much more. We’ve no stranger to Lincoln and we’ve done the touristy stuff so this visit was more about restocking and refuelling before continuing down the Peninsula.

But there must have been something in the Eyre.

On our second day there, on 1st April “I woke feeling strange … my head’s heavy, my ears are sore and my energies feel all over the place. Today I’m teary and emotional, for no apparent reason. “ “But Suzy … like an angel was there for me …” That’s what I wrote in my journal that night. “I’m so thankful to be where I am, with the people I’m with … I feel as though I’m exactly where I’m meant to be.”

I’m sharing that because it’s not always sunshine and butterflies on the road. It doesn’t matter where we are, sometimes it’s inexplicable and unavoidable, these sudden dark moods and low energies that come out of nowhere and cloud our vision.

Nature, inevitably, always grounds us.

The next day we woke to a blue sky and my energy and mood felt lighter. Maybe it was the effects of the New Moon, who knows. We continued on from Port Lincoln and checked out Moonlight Bay, another coastal free camp, before ending up at Red Cliffs Camp, near Tumby Bay. It’s a great spot, there’s green grass to park on and a blue ocean in front of us. Only a couple of kilometres away (we discover later on a walk) there’s another campground with power, water and facilities for just $25 a night but we’re happy with our free ocean view, especially with our on site barista!

Our friends discover they have issues with their power supply and van battery and so the guys spend most of the afternoon trying to diagnose the problem. Wonder if the Universe is trying to tell us something.

Good thing Tumby Bay is less than 15 minutes away. It’s an easy town to explore with its wide streets, pubs, cafes, a bakery, a friendly road house where we met Diamond the dog, she’s a girl’s best friend. The foreshore has been beautifully done up and there’s colourful silo and mural art all through the town. There’s also, we discover, a very obliging auto electrician by the name of Peter who worked for hours on our friends van, on a Sunday, diagnosing and installing new batteries.

Everything always works out, one way or another. We enjoy another two days of fresh sea air, a symphony of crashing waves and, as the sun went down, the blackest of skies. But it’s those darkest nights that produce the brightest stars. And as I watched the flash of a shooting star I wished for peace and truth throughout the planet.

As I write this we’ve moved onwards and away from the coast. After nearly two wonderful months of travelling with Steve and Suzy, from Esperance to Kalgoorlie, from the Nullarbor and beyond, we sadly part ways with our travel buddies as they continue north and we head inland. All of us have our own journeys and stories, but ultimately we’re all heading and hoping for the same destination. A world of freedom and love.

Wherever this road takes us I’m infinitely grateful for it all. I do believe we’re all exactly where we’reo meant to be and that this life is a dance of creation and intention. It’s one of choice, drama, abundance, joy and love, with all of its ups and downs and myriad of moods and mysteries along the way.

Sending you love and light as we continue the journey.

A new day begins at Port Lincoln
Just grab life and let it know you love it

38 thoughts on “Campsites and Moody Blues on the Eyre Peninsula”

    1. Thanks Brad. Wouldn’t be human if I didn’t get down every now and then. But on the whole I’d have to say this road trip has been the adventure of a lifetime! Thanks for being with me virtually. Hugs!

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  2. Great post, thanks for being vulnerable and sharing all sides of your adventures. I’ve missed your writing and of course your pictures. I’ve been away from here for too long. You were one of the first people I asked Nichol (A Kinder Way) about….Is Miriam still active? Really happy to see your blog still here and thriving. This is Steve by the way, formerly Bum No Beach, formerly Meandering Maverick….here to stay this time.

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    1. Thanks Bella, it’s been an incredible journey that’s for sure, nine months and counting … who knew we’d be gone for so long! But I must’ve been a gypsy in a previous life, because I’m loving it all. Big hugs to you. x

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  11. I’m so sorry that man was so aggressive towards you and your husband! That sort of thing can be very unsettling, especially when it’s unprovoked. I’m glad the rest of your time on the coast was more peaceful and filled with friendlier people. And thanks for your honest that, even when traveling through gorgeous scenery, you can feel “down” now and then. I think we all do sometimes, no matter where we are. It’s so easy for us to think that other people’s lives are always cheerful and easy, but that’s not true. Ultimately, though, life is what we make of it, and you do a fabulous job of making the most of yours!

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    1. The world is full of all sorts of weird and wonderful people and I guess it’s inevitable we cross paths with unpleasant ones every now and then, just as we experience those up and down moods. But you’re right, life is absolutely what we make of it. Thanks for your kind words Ann. xx

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  14. Happy to catch up on your travels, Miriam! Your photos are just so incredibly beautiful…it makes me feel like I can feel the energy of each and every place you visit and share with us. Glad you escaped the “ranger”…”non-ranger” and his aggression. It never ceases to amaze me how some people…total strangers…can go on the attack! I have experienced this and my first reaction is always “oh, this is a joke.” And then I hightail it because it becomes obvious that it is anything but!
    Keep loving life and exploring that beautiful country you live in, Miriam. And keep sharing! Much love ❤

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    1. Hi Lorrie, yes, there are always people around who like to let out their aggression and unfortunately on this day, we were in the firing line. But all’s good. We’ve moved on and continue to meet other wonderful, friendly, like minded people. Big hugs to you my friend. Always love it when you stop by. xx

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      1. Unfortunately, it is true. And you just never know when you will run into someone who has to let it fly! Best to get out of dodge…just like you did. I am very happy that the majority of the people you encounter are not this way!! Keep believing that you will continue to meet wonderful people and I believe you will 😉
        Hope the rest of your week is fabulous!! ❤

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  15. Life on the road is a great adventure with all its ups and downs..
    It seems you were lucky in just getting in the car and driving off with that hot headed tempered man who was partial to the verge of grass..
    Tempers seem very easily frayed on the road these days… road rage on the up here .. with insane driving habits..

    And as for your mood swing around the 1st April…. I did nothing but sleep for a couple of days… I could have curled in bed and happily not surfaced… Lots of muscle aches and light headed… I feel lots of Energetic changes we are feeling… As our bodies and minds adapt..
    And yes Miriam.. we are exactly where we need to be, doing exactly what we are supposed to be doing. All contributing to the Whole…
    Sending Love and Well wishes on your travels.. Safe Journey to you both ❤

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    1. I agree Sue, life on the road certainly is a great adventure and, fortunately for us, has been full of mostly ups. But there’s always those moments! Mostly we’ve encountered wonderful like minded people who are enjoying their freedoms as we are.
      How interesting that you also felt those effects on the 1st April. Must admit that lately the tiredness and fatigue is really prominent, so I just go with it, listening to my body and resting/sleeping when I can. Hope you’re feeling well now. Sending you lots of love and many thanks for your good wishes. xx ❤️

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  16. When we were travelling full time i found the occassional country house sit helped keep the blues away. I think i just needed to touch base with roots, even if it happened to be someone elses roots. Loved reading about your Eyre Penninsula visit. Its on our list. That ranger!

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    1. That ranger (if he was one) was something else! And yes, home stays are a great way to mix things up Chris, for sure. We’re often on the lookout for house sits that fit into our plans.

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  17. What an incredible journey you are one ~ immersing yourself in nature, and from your incredible photographs I do not know how you could ever stop roaming these roads 🙂 The freedom to roam and let your mind do the same. Wonderful, wonderful to read about this adventure (minus the ranger…). Cheers ~

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