Cliff top camps, rugged ocean views and a roller coaster of emotions was all part of my stay on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. Here’s a lowdown on our time along this wild woolly coastline.
After crossing the Nullarbor, Ceduna and falling in love with Our Patch at Perlubie Beach, for 16 amazing nights, it was finally time to move on and relinquish our beach shack to new friends Kaz and Tony (who I met bogged in the sand the day before).
From Perlubie we headed to Elliston and the luxury of an ensuite site where Suzy and I finally coloured those greys! We spent the next day exploring the Talia Caves and the rugged coastline of the Sculpture Trail along the Ocean Drive. We did a reconnaissance drive to check out some coastal camp sites including Walkers Rocks.
The following day we continued along the coast, detouring to Sheringa Beach ($20 unpowered for a night) and onto Point Drummond, where you can free camp on the cliffs. It was super windy so we opted to move on but first we decided to pull off the road to make a sandwich for lunch
It was here on the side of the track that Doug got a bit of a shock, as an unmarked Ute pulled up and the guy inside (possibly a ranger but with no ID) screamed at him to get off the vegetation (our wheels were slightly off the road). The next thing I know Doug sticks his head in the van and tells me to “get in the car, this guy wants to kill me!” He was not kidding.
We still don’t know if he was a ranger or a local with a red hot temper who just wanted to bash someone up. Needless to say we didn’t stick around. The hunt for an overnight camp continued.
Our next detour was to Greenley Beach . As we stepped out of the car to check out the view we were greeted, not by an aggressive, macho, power wielding thug, but a large pod of playful dolphins leaping about in the water. Now that’s more like it! Watching them was pure magic.
So it was here we stayed the night, finding a spot at Greenley Campground, a levelled cliff point, with views out to the ocean. There’s nothing else but it’s beautiful, the sky is dramatic, our vans are level and well stocked and all is well and happy in our world. We wake the following morning to grey skies but still we walk the long stretch of beach to the rocks and back, leaving only footprints
Coffin Bay was our lunch stop and of course we couldn’t leave without buying some of their fresh, famous oysters to enjoy that night. Further on, Port Lincoln became home for the next two nights, this big centre of whale shark dives, cruises, a National Park to explore and much more. We’ve no stranger to Lincoln and we’ve done the touristy stuff so this visit was more about restocking and refuelling before continuing down the Peninsula.
But there must have been something in the Eyre.
On our second day there, on 1st April “I woke feeling strange … my head’s heavy, my ears are sore and my energies feel all over the place. Today I’m teary and emotional, for no apparent reason. “ “But Suzy … like an angel was there for me …” That’s what I wrote in my journal that night. “I’m so thankful to be where I am, with the people I’m with … I feel as though I’m exactly where I’m meant to be.”
I’m sharing that because it’s not always sunshine and butterflies on the road. It doesn’t matter where we are, sometimes it’s inexplicable and unavoidable, these sudden dark moods and low energies that come out of nowhere and cloud our vision.
Nature, inevitably, always grounds us.
The next day we woke to a blue sky and my energy and mood felt lighter. Maybe it was the effects of the New Moon, who knows. We continued on from Port Lincoln and checked out Moonlight Bay, another coastal free camp, before ending up at Red Cliffs Camp, near Tumby Bay. It’s a great spot, there’s green grass to park on and a blue ocean in front of us. Only a couple of kilometres away (we discover later on a walk) there’s another campground with power, water and facilities for just $25 a night but we’re happy with our free ocean view, especially with our on site barista!
Our friends discover they have issues with their power supply and van battery and so the guys spend most of the afternoon trying to diagnose the problem. Wonder if the Universe is trying to tell us something.
Good thing Tumby Bay is less than 15 minutes away. It’s an easy town to explore with its wide streets, pubs, cafes, a bakery, a friendly road house where we met Diamond the dog, she’s a girl’s best friend. The foreshore has been beautifully done up and there’s colourful silo and mural art all through the town. There’s also, we discover, a very obliging auto electrician by the name of Peter who worked for hours on our friends van, on a Sunday, diagnosing and installing new batteries.
Everything always works out, one way or another. We enjoy another two days of fresh sea air, a symphony of crashing waves and, as the sun went down, the blackest of skies. But it’s those darkest nights that produce the brightest stars. And as I watched the flash of a shooting star I wished for peace and truth throughout the planet.
As I write this we’ve moved onwards and away from the coast. After nearly two wonderful months of travelling with Steve and Suzy, from Esperance to Kalgoorlie, from the Nullarbor and beyond, we sadly part ways with our travel buddies as they continue north and we head inland. All of us have our own journeys and stories, but ultimately we’re all heading and hoping for the same destination. A world of freedom and love.
Wherever this road takes us I’m infinitely grateful for it all. I do believe we’re all exactly where we’reo meant to be and that this life is a dance of creation and intention. It’s one of choice, drama, abundance, joy and love, with all of its ups and downs and myriad of moods and mysteries along the way.
Sending you love and light as we continue the journey.