Our two nights at Parry Beach campsite near Denmark are a real treat. With the beach only minutes away and tropical bushland surrounding our camp site, we have the best of both worlds. For the first time in ages it’s cool and we’re allowed camp fires, so it’s wonderful to sit and share laughs with new friends, our lovely South African neighbours John and Brenda.
One of the highlights of this area is the spectacular William Bay National Park with the beautiful beaches of Green Pool, Elephant Rocks and Madfish Bay not far away. If you check my Insta photos you’ll read how Madfish Bay got it’s name.
Here two tides converge in different directions which is pretty extraordinary. At low tide you can walk across to the island on the other side. The south coast of WA truly has some spectacular beaches
We venture into four wheel drive territory in Quarram Nature Reserve. Our tyre pressure is reduced to 16psi as the sand is deep and, as we’re alone on the tracks, we don’t go too far. The skies look ominous and we have no desire to get bogged out there. I was happy to get back to camp for drinks on the rocks.
From Sandy tracks to Shiraz
The area around Denmark is renowned for its wine, its vineyards, berries and gourmet produce. So, it’s only right we sample some. Not far from Parry Beach is The Good Food Factory which serves the best burgers, the biggest cones and the biggest variety of home made jams, preserves, sauces and toffee. The best bit is, you can try before you buy.
Not far away we have a wine and cheese tasting at Ducketts Wines and the Farmhouse Cheese Factory which ends up being more like a mini lunch time extravaganza. Back at camp, we join our neighbours for another night around the campfire.
Onwards to Albany
From Denmark we continue to Albany and to our next stop at the King River Palms Caravan Park. It’s like an oasis and we receive a friendly welcome from owners Dwayne and Hen, the nicest and most down to earth park owners we’ve met on our travels. With school holidays over we score the most beautiful riverside spot in the park. The kayaks nearby are free to use and so we paddle the waters to the sound of birds and tranquility.
Outside of the park, with restrictions and mandates ramping up in the West, we’re content to forgo the touristy stuff and enjoy the simple things. We head to Emu Point amid sunshine and blue skies. We pack a picnic, lay a blanket on the grass and spend a couple of hours lazing about with time to dream, to watch the clouds and simply be.
Those clouds eventually cover the entire sky and for the rest of our stay the blue skies disappear. Not put off, we explore the rugged coastal cliffs of the Salmon Rocks, Natural Bridge and the Gap in Torndirrup National Park, where the surging power of the Southern Ocean is on show amongst towering granite crops.
The colours of the coast are muted and grey. However the power of nature is indisputable. At the Gap, which was once connected to Antarctica, standing on a viewing platform high above the surging seas is exhilarating.
From the gentle and mesmerising heaving of calm seas to the buffeting rush of wind and spray of summer storms the experience changes from day to day.
“All Goes if Courage Goes”
It feels much like life these days, an ever changing complexity that we’re navigating through. On some days the clouds roll over, I feel the dark energies of our world and the heaviness of the collective. And on other days I feel calm, at peace, strong and hopeful.
Right now I’m feeling an incredible building of unity and solidarity, of people rising up in determination, strength and resolve. Seeing people band together, with a common purpose, fuels my hope for a brighter future and for true freedom that is everyone’s birth-right.
On our second last morning in Albany we visit the National Anzac Centre, which is Australia’s foremost museum honouring the ANZAC legend. We walk to the summit of Mount Clarence which is lined with memorials and stories of the past. From the top there’s an incredible view of King George Sound and the Islands. Albany was the last sight of land the first Anzac troops saw of Australia, on the way to the battlefields of the First World War.
The beach below is Misery Bay, it has little to do with the ANZAC legend but it’s just been named by Tourism Australia as the best beach in the country. This former whaling spot and hidden gem (no longer) is about 20kms from Albany so we check it out. If you’re curious about the name you can read more here.
The weather wasn’t cooperating when we visit. It’s overcast and grey and the waters are hardly dazzling yet it’s still beautiful. Many were surprised about the choice but perhaps what was once typical isn’t any more. Everything is about perspective after all.
As we’re about to head into February I try not to look too far ahead. We take one day at a time, one step at a time and in this way we can stay grounded, true to ourselves and aligning with courage, love, free will and sovereignty.
Let’s not focus on our differences but on what unites us. After all, we’re all on this crazy, mixed up, wondrous journey together.
Sending you love and light.