The Tides are Turning

On the morning we leave Broome we discover a leak in the van. It’s the second time it’s happened this trip and hubby, aka Mr Fixit, still can’t work out the cause. We thought the water pump issues had been sorted but they keep resurfacing.

Still, one way or another, everything gets resolved It’s a bit like tides, those ebbs and flow of life, these little challenges are there to test us. We make a morning dash to Bunnings to buy a new storage box for our extra pantry items under the bed, we dry the area but the source of the leak remains a mystery.

The track to Cape Leveque

Up until 2018 the Cape Leveque Road was unsealed, a long stretch of red dirt track that leads to the Cape, but these days the road is sealed, making it quicker and easier to access. Our destination is 170kms up this road, on the pristine Dampier Peninsula.

Once we reach the turn off towards Middle Lagoon it’s a different story. The 30kms track into the campground is 4WD recommended, red earth that’s bumpy and corrugated. We lower our tyre pressures and head off down the track, to another spot lesser travelled.

Middle Lagoon Mixups

We’re greeted by Herbie the caretaker who gives us a map to our booked site, up on the ridge. All looks good till we get there and find a caravan already set up. It’s a comedy of errors as we meet van owner Kim who races up from the beach. She’s stressed, full of apologies and runs off to sort out the mix up with Herbie at the office. We agree to take the next site. It’s not a big deal for us, after all, the view is the same.

We’re surrounded by water: the Indian Ocean and Ocean Beach is in front of us and Middle Lagoon is to our left. The days are spent in the water and at night we enjoy the ever-changing colours over the horizon. When the sun finally disappears the stars come out and take over the show. Nature’s the ultimate cinema.

Even the little things like doing the dishes is a joy with a view like this.

Adapting to the Tides

It’s a safe beach. There’s no sharks, crocs or blue stingers here. When the tide is low we walk further to reach the water and when it’s high, like on our second morning, it’s practically on our doorstep, like a tropical spa bath.

Somehow, the tides dictate life both on land and in the water in Broome and on the Dampier Peninsula.

They’re amongst the biggest in the world and their rise and fall creates a beautiful rhythm to the day.

Out at Cygnet Bay, Australia’s oldest pearl farm, there’s a range of land based tours and sea safaris available. One of the most famous is the Horizontal Falls Tour, leaving from either Broome or Derby. For us however, the cost is too high, it’s the equivalent of two additional weeks living on the road.

Horizontal Falls is just that, “a horizontal waterfall you can ride through”. David Attenborough called it “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world”, an ocean phenomenon the result of one of the world’s highest tidal shifts compressing through two narrow breaks in the Kimberley coastline.

But we can’t do everything so we do the next best thing. Conditions are good, the wind’s died down so we’ve booked ourselves on a 10 person Sea Safari, a Giant Tides boat ride.

Giant Tides Tour

Now we’ve gone on a few awesome cruises this trip: Katherine, Kakadu, Darwin and Lake Argyle, but this two hour boat ride is undoubtedly the most exciting one we’ve done.

We motor out into the sheltered waters of King Sound and the surrounding islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago which make Cygnet Bay unique. This working Pearl Farm cultivates some of the finest quality South Sea Pearls in the world. We cruise past osprey nests and ancient Kimberley cliffs and then the action ramps up.

Doug and I are in the very front and I don’t know whether to hold onto my hat or the seat as skipper Ben tells us to “hold on”. He powers the throttle and the vessel hurtles towards the whirlpool of tides. Then we slow, sit and watch the phenomenon that surrounds us.

“Feel the power of the world’s largest tropical tides as you cruise among the giant whirlpools and tidal waves. Discover an isolated and rugged coastline where tides of up to 12-meters push their way through the islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago.”

It’s exciting and utterly thrilling to witness the power of these tides. I’ve never seen a waterfall in the ocean nor have I seen such massive waves and whirlpools from a boat. My short video will hopefully give you a slightly bigger picture.

Back at camp and in our van that night I’m lulled to sleep by the sound of waves that feel gentle in comparison to the ones we rode today. It’s rhythmic, hypnotic and like I’m still on the boat, feeling the vibration and pull of the ocean.

Just like moons and suns, With certainty of tides, Just like hopes springing high, Still I’ll rise.” Maya Angelou

As I write this I think about the strange times we’re living in and the state of the world today. I can’t help but think that things are moving and shifting faster than we can see. The rise and flow of what’s happening worldwide is creating change on our planet, in a way we can’t even imagine, a way that will change how we live forever.

May we all ride it out, with love, faith and trust in a bigger picture of a hopeful, beautiful new world that’s slowly emerging on the horizon.

Sending love and light.


Another day ends at Middle Lagoon as we ride the waves of inspiration.
And so our journey continues


22 thoughts on “The Tides are Turning

    1. We had an absolute blast Tim. And no, we definitely wouldn’t want to get caught in one. We asked Ben if he’d ever been caught in a whirlpool and he said “not a big one” but we were actually sitting in a small one. He knew what he was doing, thankfully!

      Liked by 1 person

  1. What a beautiful world we live in Miriam and Thankyou so much for sharing your journey with us all. So appreciated! Amazing and a little terrifying experiencing how nature is❤️ Take care and carry on flowing, much love🥰

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Thanks Barbara and I couldn’t agree more, we do live in a beautiful world, amazing, inspiring and yes sometimes even a little terrifying. So happy to share my journey. Sending big hugs your way. 💜

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  2. Wow, Miriam, the whirlpools are incredible. I can’t imagine being caught and sucked into them. I must have missed a lot of your travel posts. Did you drive the van all the way to Dampier Peninsula? What an experien ce to see the Indian Ocean. The photos are stunning.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Miriam, yes we left Melbourne early July and have been travelling ever since. It’s been, and continues to be, an incredible adventure and we’re loving it. Hope you’re doing well. xx

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  3. That whirlpool was stunning! I know I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again: thank you so much for sharing your travels with us. I love seeing the photos of places I’ve never been to, and reading your descriptions of everything. Most of all, I love your positive and adventurous spirit! It’s what we need to deal with these strange unsettling times….

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